Thursday, 3 November 2016

What's the best ring setting

Claw Set
What It Is: This is the most common type of setting for Engagement Rings and Eternity Rings having 2, 4,6 or 8 claws that hold a single stone firmly in a metal. These days many ladies are choosing to have claw setting as a wedding ring. When deciding between two and four claws for a wedding band, know that two claws show more of the diamonds, while four claws are more secure, but can sometimes overwhelm a small stone so showing a lot of metal which can mean you will see more metal then stone.

Advantages of Claw setting:
  • Allows the most light through from all angles and help’s the diamond sparkle.
  • Allows easy cleaning of the stone.
  • Holds even the most fragile gems securely.
Disadvantages of Claw setting:
  • Offers less protection to the stone than other styles as a lot of the stone is exposed.
  • Can get caught in hair or snag clothing.
  • High-set prong settings can scratch and hurt other people if brushed against.
Tension Set
What It Is: A design in which the stone is pressure set in the shank/band to hold the stone firmly in place. The minimal amount of metal touching the stone can give the impression that the stone is "floating". Only extremely hard stones such as diamonds can withstand the required pressure.
Advantages of Tension setting:
  • Allows a lot of light into the stone.
Disadvantages of Tension setting:
  • Ring is built to fit and difficult to resize at a later date not good for lifetime wear.
  • Repair options are limited, only the manufacturer can fix your ring.
  • Less metal means less protection to the sides of the stone, recommended for less active people or for special occasions only.
  • Not recommended for gems stones. 
Bezel Set
What It Is: This setting is normally used for Engagement or dress rings, using an almost flush rim or ring of metal with edges fully or partially surrounding the whole of the stone, also known as Rubover set.
Advantages of Bezel setting:
  • Protects the sides of the stone from being nicked or chipped.
  • Conceals existing chips in any stone you are having set.
  • Very secure setting for any shaped diamond or Gem stone.
  • The ring surface is completely smooth so not catching or snagging on clothing.
  • A white metal encircling a white stone can make the stone appear larger.

Disadvantages of Bezel setting:
  • A yellow gold bezel setting can make a "white" stone such as a diamond appear less white because the yellow tint of the setting is reflected in the stone but would look fantastic with a yellow diamond.
Channel Set
What It Is: Popular for wedding bands, this timeless setting has metal running parallel down each side of the stones with no metal separating them, the stones are then set down in to a cut channel and the metal then securing the stones all the way down both sides of the stones. Round stones are the most popular shape to set in a channel but you can also have square or rectangular cut stones which set into a channel setting stops almost all of the dirt getting between the stones.
Advantages of Channel setting:
  • Protects the sides of the stones.
  • Provides better security for small stones than a claw or pave setting.
  • The surface is completely smooth and unobtrusive.
  • Square or Rectangle stones set in a channel setting are very hygienic. 
Disadvantages of Channel setting:
  • A ring set with stones all the way around can be difficult to resize as stones would need to be taken out to re-size but it can be done.

Bar Set

What It Is: This setting would normally be a popular setting for an Eternity ring. Bar setting is thin vertical bars of metal between stones to secure them firmly in place, you can have this setting around some or all the ring.
Advantages of Bar setting:
  • Protects the sides of each stone's sides but not as much as Bezel setting.
  • The surface is relatively smooth as to not catch on clothing.
Disadvantages of Bar setting:
  • Leaves the top and bottom of the stone exposed.
  • The uneven edges of some designs may not be as comfortable as other settings.
Pave Set
What It Is: This setting is very popular for wedding rings and can give a very vintage look, The French word for "paved", a pavĂ© setting involves one or more rows of several small stones set down into holes that set them level with the surface of the ring, little grains in a 2 pip or 4 pip setting to hold the stone in. This setting is good for people on a tight budget as you will need less stone to go further around the ring.
Advantages of Pave setting:
  • Gives the illusion of more and bigger diamonds than they really are.
  • Gives a very vintage and sparkly feel.
Disadvantages of Pave setting:
  • Not recommended for fragile gems, although the proximity of the stones offers good protection for the girdle of each stone.
  • Setting can be scratchier than channel or invisible set.
  • Pips are not quite as reliable as other settings for securing stones.

Invisible set

What It Is: Very popular for wedding rings for men and women, this setting sets the stone "flush" into a hole in the band so that it does not protrude at all. The ring's metal is then pressed and smoothed around the stone's surface to secure it.
Advantages of Invisible setting:
  • Protects a stone's sides from being nicked or chipped.
  • Conceals existing nicks or chips on a stone's girdle.
  • Secures a stone well.
  • The ring surface is completely smooth.
Disadvantages of Invisible setting:

  • As this is such a safe setting it can restrict the light from getting to the stone.

Tuesday, 9 August 2016

15 interesting facts about Sapphire Gem stones 

  • Sapphires have been treasured for thousands of years by ancient Romans who polished and wore them as jewellery.

  • As most people know sapphires come in a variety of blues, but did you know they also come in pink, yellow, orange and green, they also come in red but are better known as a ruby.

  • What changes the colours of the stone is the mineral corundum. A sapphire is turned blue when it contains iron, titanium and chromium.

  • The consistency of chromium affects the colour, a little chromium can turn the corundum pink, while a higher level of this element will turn it red (ie. a Ruby)

  • The rarest colour of sapphire is the pinkie/orange variety, they are called padparadscha, and the name comes from the Sanskrit word for lotus flower. The word sapphire comes from the Greek word Sappheiros.

  • Sapphires are among the most durable naturally occurring elements in the world. Gemstones are rated on their ability to withstand scratching based on a system called the Mohs Scale of Hardness, and sapphires score 9 out of 10. The only natural item that can scratch a sapphire is a diamond. The durability of sapphires makes them an excellent choice for engagement rings and other pieces of jewellery that you plan to wear every day.

  • Because of this hardness, sapphire also has industrial uses. The recently announced Apple Watch will feature lab-created sapphire glass in its screen.
  • Sapphires are found in many places throughout the world, including Australia, Malawi, Madagascar, Sri Lanka, and the United States. Brilliant Earth’s ethical origin sapphires are sourced from mines in Australia, Malawi, and Sri Lanka.

  • French Emperor Napoleon Bonaparte gave to his beloved Josephine a sapphire engagement ring in 1796. The ring, which sold at auction for close to a million dollars in 2013, features a pear-shaped sapphire next to a pear-shaped diamond, on a simple gold band.

  • Throughout history various cultures have attributed mystical powers to sapphires. In ancient times it was believed that sapphires protected their wearers from evil. In the middle ages, Europeans believed that sapphires cured eye diseases and preserved chastity. Sapphires have been used to symbolize nobility and faithfulness.
  • Deep blue sapphires have long been associated with royalty (which contributed to the naming of the colour “royal blue”). Sapphires were often worn by medieval kings, who believed that the gemstones would protect them from their enemies.

  • The most famous royal sapphire today is the engagement ring given by England’s Prince Charles to Lady Diana Spencer in 1981, and now worn by Catherine the Duchess of Cambridge. It features an 18-carat oval blue sapphire surrounded by diamonds.

  • Sapphire engagement rings certainly aren’t only for royals. Before the twentieth century, blue sapphires were the favored gemstones for engagement rings. Sapphires were quite popular in Victorian engagement rings and wedding rings.

  • Sapphires can exhibit a phenomenon called the “star effect,” This occurs when needle-like inclusions create a six-ray star pattern on the surface of a cabochon-cut sapphire, often called a “star sapphire.”

  • Perhaps the most intriguing type of sapphire is the “colour change” variety. These gemstones exhibit different colours depending on the lighting, often changing from blue in daylight to purple in incandescent light.

If you want a sapphire engagement ring or eternity ring, Goldfinger can offer you a free home consultation and show you a wide range of colours, size and shapes.

Please contact us on 0207 405 7590 or email us

Friday, 4 March 2016

History of Hatton Garden

It all started with a house, Church & Gardens of Bishop of ELY, It was Called Ely Place built in 1307
Elizabeth 1st, daughter of Henry V111 gave Christopher Hatton (born 1546) Ely Place in 1581.

The Queen then knighted him and made him Lord Chancellor of Oxford Called the dancing chancellor. He was thought to be the Queens fancy man and that was said by Mary Queen of Scott’s!

He was also one of those appointed to arrange a marriage between the Queen and Duke of Alencon in 1581, although he urged the Queen not to marry.

Sir Christopher Hatton was part of the courts when Mary Queen Scott’s was found guilty of treason in 1586.
He started to build on the estate in 1587 the first road was called Hatton Street now Hatton Garden.

Sir Christopher became ill and the queen visited him in November 1591 he then died 10 days later at Ely Place and was buried on 20 December 1591 at St Paul's Cathedral where the Queen had  a massive monument for Hatton placed at the alter but this was destroyed in the great fire 1666.

The land was past to his nephew William Newport (Hatton) who was married to his second wife Elizabeth Hatton. He then died in 1597 leaving the land to Christopher Hatton II.

Lady Elizabeth Hatton now a widow, young rich and beautiful had many suitors.
She had an annual ball but on 26 Jan 1626 at one of her balls she met a stranger who she danced with and she was found outside on the cobbles ripped limb from limb and her still bleeding heart. There are even rumours that her ghost still haunts the street.
Now called Bleeding heart yard, try the little French restaurant.

The last Anne Hatton daughter of Christopher Hatton II she died in 1743 and the Hatton estate was left to Earl of Winchilsea.

Between 1743-1880 new houses were built and the area was mainly residential in this time the top of Hatton Garden was like little Italy they built a school in 1841.
From 1880’s Hatton garden was transformed into a commercial area and in 1881 the first machine gun was designed at 57 Hatton Garden.
Clerkenwell Road was the first place to house the first diamonds and gold trader in 1885 the biggest is De Beers which is hidden behind Hatton Garden.
 All just workshops and trading in diamonds and gold but the first retail jewellery shop was in 1962 by 1987 80% of the worlds diamonds and gold trading went through Hatton Garden.

In 1997 thieves stole a jewel worth over 7 million still the biggest unsolved robbery in London.

Hatton Garden has over the years had many big names first was King Henry VIII who was married in ST Etheldreds Church. This church is one of the oldest catholic churches in England and one of only 2 left in London dating from King Edward I in 1300’s.
Ely Place was in 1772 taken by the crown and used as a prison, before this Traven inn was built in 1547 in a little alley which lead to Ely Place and there by the door is still a branch of the Cherry tree that Queen Elizabeth danced around with Sir Christopher.
Charles Dickens lived on Holborn Road and used to drink in the Traven and Gray’s inn many of his books include the life of Hatton Garden recalling the inn’s, Oliver Twist's inspiration, saffron hill, Christopher Hatton and Bleeding heart yard.

 Today there are over 300 businesses and 55 shops in Hatton Garden.

Hatton Garden is full of amazing jewellery and you can walk through the streets to be a part of our English history.

Book your Free design consultation with Goldfinger a Hatton Garden Jewellery manufacture.
0207 405 7590  

Tuesday, 19 January 2016

Natural coloured diamonds
What so many people do not know is that you can get natural coloured diamonds in almost any colour in the rainbow.  Yellow and brown also known  as Champagne and Cognac or chocolate diamonds are the more commonly found and red, orange, pink, blue, purple, violet and green diamonds being much rarer are also more expensive.
Natural coloured diamonds are very rare which is why we all have to pay such a high premium to purchase them but to put it into prospective 1 in 10,000 diamonds found are coloured diamonds and they are only found in a few mines in the world.
Australia – The Argyle diamond mine supplies 90% of the worlds pink, purple, brown and red diamonds
Africa –The Cullinan diamond mine is the world’s majority of orange diamonds but also supplies a large amount of yellows and blue but just a small amount of green diamonds.
Russia – If it is purple or violet diamonds you are looking for then Siberia is where you will need to go although it will be hard to find one as these are the rarest of all the coloured diamonds almost non-existent.
All natural coloured diamonds are very rare but blue diamonds are the desirable colour so they also tend to be the most expensive of all the coloured diamonds.
Just like white diamonds the cost of a coloured natural diamond will depend on the grade of the stone, so the normal cut, clarity, colour and carat weight applies but you are not looking for the perfect white colourless diamond you are now looking for the colour to be rich and intense.   For example you can have a yellow diamond which is a weak pale yellow right up to a bright yellow so the more intense the yellow the more money the yellow diamond will cost.  The same applies for pink diamonds, blue diamonds, red diamonds and all the other coloured diamonds.

If you cannot find what you want in your budget then it might be worth looking at treated coloured diamonds are these are still beautiful but more affordable.
But if you need any help finding that perfect coloured diamond ring click the link below and have your ring designed and make just for you.

Wednesday, 2 December 2015


Topaz is not a hard stone even though it does score 8 on the Mohs Hardness scale.

High heat or temperature changes can cause breaks in your Topaz stone, i.e. so don’t come in from the cold and wash your hands with hot water whilst wearing your ring.

Prolonged exposure to strong sunlight can cause fading.

Topaz is affected only slightly by chemicals.


Topaz stones should not be cleaned in ultra sonic tanks or with a polishing motor.

Thursday, 19 November 2015



Wedding rings, engagement rings and eternity rings are worn every day for many years and most of us at some point will need our rings sized up or down.  But do not worry because a good jeweller will be able to size your ring for you up or down between 1 and 3 sizes depending on the depth and weight of the band.   If your band is very thin a piece of metal can be added and if you have the re-size done by a qualified goldsmith then you should not see a join.  
Precious metals are malleable so they can be stretched or reduced without any problems by an experienced jeweller.  It is always easier to size or repair a piece of jewellery if you have first hand knowledge of the item so before leaving your precious rings ask if they will be repairing the rings or sending them away for repair by a third party.  A good jeweller will be able to add a new band to your ring, new head or repair the claws and re-set the diamonds or replace a lost diamond. 9ct and 18ct white gold will need to be rhodium plated again once it has been sized.   Goldfinger specialise in making and repairing rings and other jewellery with over 40 years experience so if you need help give us a call on 0207 405 7590


Thursday, 5 November 2015

Top 10 Christmas and New Year proposals

  •  Under the Christmas tree – wrap lots of little presents and put them under the Christmas tree but put the engagement ring right at the back.

  •      Do it in the Snow – why not wait until that perfect time when it snows and take her to a special place and propose in the snow.

  • Spell it out – being Christmas and New Year there will be lot of lights and decorations so write “will you marry me” in lights or hang the ring on the tree.

  •      Santa little helpers – why not dress up your pet or children and have them give her the message and ring.

  • Be creative – if you are an artistic person you could make her an advent calendar and put the ring in the last box.

  •  New Year countdown – That special night to forget the past and start anew is a great time to do your marriage proposal wait till the stroke of midnight or when the fireworks start and get down on one knee.

  • On the door step – wait till you have done all the presents and you are off to the family dinner ring the door bell and turn to her get down on one knee, sharing your special moment with your family.

  • New Year’s resolution – Book a nice meal out in a place she has always wanted to go and give her your New Year’s resolution list, list 10 resolutions and the last one being TO GET MARRIED as she looks up ask her “will you marry me?”

  • Christmas morning – Romantic cold Christmas morning set the atmosphere light the fire, candles and presents the perfect time to pop the question.

  • Christmas treasure hunt – If she likes fun and games then why not plan a treasure hunt but keep the clues simple and finish in a place that she will love and then propose.